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Dr650 high compression dyno

The Suzuki DR is a long-standing model in Suzuki's lineup, introduced in as a replacement for the DR model. It has a 13 L fuel tank. An upgrade over stock, these hard-welded premium rockers are highly recommended when upgrading your camshaft.

ProCycle side panel guards to keep your saddlebags from fouling the side covers. Constructed from mild steel tubing that is powder coated black for nice long lasting good looks.

Wiseco 96mm piston with rings, wrist pin, circlips, head gasket, and base gasket. Requires your cylinder to be bored to fit the larger piston. Special order item.

dr650 high compression dyno

Allow 10 extra days for delivery. The cc Big Bore Kit includes a custom made, forged 9. A custom made multi-layer steel head gasket, OEM metal base gasket, tensioner gasket, and cam bolt lock plate and a ProCycle specific big bore cylinder sleeve. Cylinders with sleeves installed are in stock, but we must have your original cylinder as a 'core'. These cores allow us to keep up this program and it is nothing more than an exchange - we give you ours, you give us yours.

Raises compression from stock 9. The high quality forged piston from JE is almost a full ounce lighter than the stock cast piston. This makes for less vibration and a smoother running motor. Includes rings, pin, clips, and top end gasket set with valve stem seals and metal base gasket.

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Fits the standard size stock bore. Top end gasket set with metal base gasket. We strongly recommend checking valve to piston clearance when installing a non-standard camshaft. This is the little rubber plug on the right hand side of the cylinder head. Replace this plug to avoid having an oil leak after disassembling your top top end.

Solid reliability and easy installation. This manual tensioner is a good upgrade for any modified motor, especially if it is ridden hard. A new gasket is included.

2018 Suzuki DR650SE Review

You are going to need it if you work on your starter motor. It is not a good idea to re-use this gasket. If it blows out, it will dump a large amount of oil onto your right foot. Your automatic cam chain tensioner is spring loaded. This can make it difficult to install as it wants to extend before you have it bolted into place. This handy tool will back off the cam chain tensioner mechanism and hold it for you.

No more awkward 3-handed contortions are required to get the tensioner installed. Cylinder head upgrade. Features CNC machined port shapes, larger high performance valve seats and custom made valves. This is not a radical modification. These bigger valves bring the valve sizes up to what would normally be found on other brands of singles. Big Valve Heads are sold only on an exchange basis.With a glance at the DR S from Suzuki and you might just dismiss it as an enduro bike.

That would be doing it an injustice. When I mentioned that I was looking at the DRS, two comments that folks made over and over was it has a small fuel tank and the seat sucks.

For the price, if you have to throw on some accessories to make it your own, you are still getting an inexpensive ride. The bike has no electronics, which is a double-edged sword. Seat height is a lofty Suzuki has an accessories kit to drop the seat 1. The DRS definitely weighs in at the bottom of the range for true dual-sport machines at pounds, wet. A single-downtube, double-cradle frame made from tubular stock with a rectangular downtube gets things started in the right light?

Not quite the same as a proper skidplate available as an accessorybut better than nothing, and certainly a better arrangement than a stressed-engine frame design that leaves the engine well exposed and vulnerable to terrain strikes.

Stock ground clearance is Suspension height at both ends may be lowered through the use of an accessories kit, necessarily with a concurrent reduction in seat height and ground clearance. The suspension itself is definitely set up with true off-road work in mind, and the DRS is not a soccer-mom equivalent. Suspension travel is right at In an effort to increase the effectiveness of the suspension, Suzuki runs lightweight brake discs and hollow axles to help keep unsprung weight to a minimum, and reduce the amount of work the shocks have to do in order to keep the wheels on the ground.

A twin-piston front caliper binds a mm front disc, not exactly the biggest disc available, but rather large by off-road standards. I expect this is to provide adequate braking effort on paved roads with greater available traction than you find on the dirt, and this keeps the DR from being just a dressed-up dirt bike. Another dual-pot caliper acts on the mm rear disc to complete the brakes, and the lack of ABS or brake-linking keeps the operation simple and honest.

At 21 inches, the front wheel is definitely sized for serious off-road riding where large diameter front wheels are desirable, and arguably necessary. A inch rim brings up the rear, and both wheels run an aluminum rim and hub with stainless-steel spokes. For years, off-road riders have preferred laced wheels for the extra give they provide, and Suzuki gives riders what they want at the hoops.

An air- and oil-cooled, cc thumper engine powers the DRS. The jug measures out at mm x 82 mm — typical for one-lungers to run oversquare — and it runs a relatively low compression ratio at 9. A five-speed, constant-mesh tranny and chain drive complete the drivetrain.

Never one to miss an opportunity for some proprietary acronyms and ever-so-basic of techno alphabet soup, the factory packed in its Suzuki Advanced Cooling System SACS that squirts oil onto the bottom of the piston crown, then runs the oil through a cooler to carry off the waste heat.

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As usual, we see the Suzuki Composite Electrochemical Material SCEM treatment in the bore that reduces wear and friction while maintaining good heat transfer capabilities. Suzuki covers your dual-sport beauty for months with an unlimited mileage, limited warranty and offers extensions through Suzuki Extended Protection SEP. Which to go with? The DR mill displaces a total of cc, a few cubes shy of the cc Kawasaki lump, but close enough for government work.

They both run single-cylinder thumpers, but Kawasaki opted for the quieter, but heavier and more complicated water-cooled option, no doubt where some of the difference in weight comes from. In addition to the weight of the water jacketed engine and radiator, the Kawasaki carries a little front fairing and flyscreen and a huge, 6. This situation reverses when we consider the suspension. True enough, the KLR is within the bounds of the lower end of the off-road scale with 7.

Bottom line here is, the Suzuki product comes ready to handle significantly rougher terrain. The bad news is while the KLR looks like a proper dual-sport, the DR comes off more like a motocross bike on steroids.Just found us?

dr650 high compression dyno

Wondering what this motorcycle adventure travel gig is all about? You've come to the right place! We peddle dreams, the achievable kind, creating an addiction to overland travel. It all starts here Dreaming of a motorcycle trip to distant climes? This section will help you to plan your trip, whether it's to the next state, country or all the way around the world! Start here! The Achievable Dream 5-part series - the definitive guide on DVD for planning your motorcycle adventure.

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Get Ready! Also available for download on Vimeo! You could just get on a plane with your credit card and passport and buy or rent everything you need when you get there. That includes the bike, riding gear, etc. But if you do want to take a bike and all your stuff with you, start here: Choosing and outfitting the bike.

Gear Up! Which bike is right for me? How do I prepare the bike? What do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps, GPS? What don't I need?

How do I pack it all? So you've done it - got inspired, planned your trip, packed your stuff and you're on the road! This section is about staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure.

And crossing borders, war zones or oceans! On the Road! Tire Changing! This section will help you to stay connected to your friends and loved ones, and make new friends along the way!Read on:. Stator coil Electrosport The stock DR stator is good for watts; the aftermarket unit pumps out watts.

dr650 high compression dyno

High compression piston JE Pistons I had to disassemble the top end to repair it anyway. Reground cam Web Cams I sent in my stock camshaft for a mild regrind, courtesy of Web. In conjunction with the new piston and the pumper carb I added a few years ago, this should help the bike accelerate faster, which is where I really want my speed.

Clutch Barnett Barnett sent me a new set of plates and springs for the clutch. It made sense to tune it up while I was in there, especially if the updated top end encouraged aggressive clutch action.

It makes lots of power, but also makes lots of noise, and requires periodic rebuilds. After that, I plan to paint the frame myself.

I currently have a steel TCI rack that weighs too much, and is too easily bent. If anyone has any experience with a similar product, let me know. After everything is back together, I plan to drop the entire bike off at Thug Engine Works, for a dyno run. Just saw this when I read Update 2. In regards to luggage racks, have a look at dirtracks. Join the conversation! Cancel reply. The Canadian Motorcycle Guide.

Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.The Suzuki DR is a long-standing model in Suzuki's lineup, introduced in as a replacement for the DR model.

It has a 13 L fuel tank. Refresh those tired old forks and make them better than new. These DDCs from Cogent are easy to install. No taking the forks apart, no drilling of the damping rods, nothing.

Just take them off, flip them over to drain the oil, add new 5w oil, drop in the DDCs and then add the springs and spacers and then install the caps. Preload spacer material is included with the. This upgrade offers better control off-road as well as on.

2015 - 2019 Suzuki DR650S

Less brake dive keeps the fork up in the middle of the stroke on-road and better control off-road whether it be rolling water bars or bouncing off the rocks. This complete fork upgrade kit includes stiffer fork springs and Race Tech cartridge emulators, as well as a set of top quality fork seals and fork oil to complete the job. Everything you need to transform your mushy stock forks into suspension that really works. You can select from various straight rate springs or even 'Progressive Suspension' springs to customize the package to your needs.

Progressive Suspension springs offer a soft initial spring rate for a plush ride.

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Progressively wound design provides increased resistance to bottoming as spring compresses. These springs are significantly stiffer than the wimpy stock springs. Spring rate spans the. Lightweight, for reduced unsprung mass. Straight rate springs will give better control in the rough stuff. These Cogent Drop-in Dynamic Cartridges will vastly improve both the compression and rebound damping of your stock forks.

These units have been given the seal of approval by the ProCycle staff for both performance and ease of installation.

No disassembly of your forks, no drilling of damper rods. Just change the oil over to 5w and install the DDCs under the springs and hit the trails. You can adjust the preload on your rear shock quite easily, why not on the forks as well? These caps give you the ability to adjust the spring preload in your forks to match your load.

Caps are CNC machined beauties with a center blue anodized core. Race Tech Cartridge Emulators make damper rod forks perform like well-tuned cartridge forks. Emulators are tunable valves that sit inside your forks on top of the damper rods and are held in place by the fork springs. Simple to install and completely tunable for all conditions and rider preferences. Patented inertia activated damping for damper rod front forks. This is the only product on the market designed to respond differently to the wheel moving up vs if the chassis is trying to move down.The KLR seems to be a fairly popular "cult" type of bike in the Dual purpose world, and there seems to be some standard modifications that people perform on it almost as soon as they buy one.

Concerning power mods, a pipe or slip-on silencer, a high flow air filter, and a jetting change of course is often the norm.

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So in an effort to see what a stock bike produces, and to see how these bolt on mods might effect you, the Saturday afternoon mechanic, I bolted some of this stuff on and displayed the charts below. Now understand, this is for reference only and is by no means the standard.

Just an idea of how a mod will effect your power and jetting. Unless the jetting is dangerous, I'm gonna leave it where the DynoJet people suggest so that those of you without a dyno and gas sniffer can see what happens with each change. In this test I used a KLR with miles in it. I chose the Big Gun exhaust system for it's complete package Quiet series silencer and header and for it's long lasting coating.

It was my intent to find out where the bike performed in "bone stock" trim, and then to add the modifications, starting with the jet kit, and plotting the best results from each mod after rejetting for each mod of course if it was way outta wack. Blue lines you see are the best of 6 runs I used run 6 for the comparison in the stock as delivered configuration. All I did here was to break in the bike, change the oil and filter, clean the air filter and warm it up on Chevron Supreme 93 octane fuel, which was used for the remainder of the test.

Suzuki Dr780 dyno run

I may tri it again later with regular 89 octane, as 93 is a waste on a bike with the low compression this one has. Red lines were runs with the recommended jets installed for a stock bike with stock airbox and filter and stock pipe The stock bike comes with a main, and though I question the use of aI wanted to do it the way you would do it Still stock pipe and air filter. Green runs were the stage one jet kit, switching back to the stock Main Jet, and pulling the airbox snorkel and adding 4 one inch holes across the top of the airbox.

Still with stock pipe and air filter. There was a pink run, run 18 it added the Big Gun pipe and the main jet, I lost the rpm sensor and it wasn't plotted on the first graph, you'll see it on the second graph, but I had to change to Speed figures on the bottom to compare all the runs, as the computer won't allow me to plot a run without RPM against a run with RPM so in order to get the 18 run plotted along with the rest, I had to change from rpm to mph.

Note however that in this case speed almost coincides with rpm so a comparison can still be made. Changes to the pink run were the adding of the Big Gun pipe and a richer main per DynoJet to a All ya need to know for now is that higher on the chart is leaner, and lower is richer, and that the yellow band is where ya wanna be. When ya first open the throttle the mixture shoots way lean, as rpm increases it gets on the needle and starts to come into a better spot, as the rpm increases further you transition onto the main for the duration.

We could talk about this all day, but for now, just figure the pilot won't show on this chart cause I didn't start my run until rpm.

DR650 Web Cams Performance Camshaft

The needle is showing leaner than it really is because of the rapid throttle opening. Figure the needle can be read from about rpm to rpm then it's the main, though they actually overlap in that area.

The red run is too lean, the blue too rich, the purple close, but still too rich.I have a drzsm that i built, by the book and then modified to make more power.

People have asked me the golden question more times than i can count. The answer is complicated and really needs a flow chart but ill do my best to break it down. But if you are on the fence about doing it, you need to look into a few things. A build, done correctly, will cost between and 2k to pull off with your own hands. This is not including any dyno tuning or any parts that you might find that will need to be replaced. If you own money on your bike, it can be hard to justify spending even more money to build it, especially if its fairly new or low miles.

For instance, if you have a older drz with over 15k or more on it, doing a build like this is a good thing. You will be replacing every single major wear part in the bike. All the bearings, seals, valves, springs, cylinder, piston etc… when you are done, you will in fact have a fresh, new motor that, if done correctly, will result in a motor that will last k with proper maintenance.

Bare with me here. Before i bought a drz, i looked into what i could do to one as far as mods go. To buy a good drz will run you about k, with a price like that, its understandable that you might be hesitant to buy one knowing that it will be slower than a crf, wr, ktm. All for about the cost of a low miles drz. This is involved! You will be touching every single part in the motor to do this! You will have the motor out of the frame, you will be splitting cases, you will need a few, easy to get tools for this.

If im making this seem hard, its because it can be if you dont plan it out. If you can install a big bore kit, you can do this. It will just take longer.

The benifits to this are that you will have a very clean motor when this is all done, if done right it will look new. Now, saying you have read this and are thinking you might go through with the build, here is a list of things you will need to do this PROPERLY and why. You will need a big bore kit obviously.

This is not the case with the 4mm kits that are available today. Steer clear of kits without forged pistons, you are building a motor, not a grenade.

Yes, you can build a stroker with hot cams, but it will be like building a race car with no compression. The cams are what makes this kit worth building.

The motor will run better, rev faster, build way more power and produce that magical torque number that you desire. Hotcams, yoshi and e cams, lack the needed duration to allow for the valves to be open for the needed amount for time for the cylinder to be filled. The motor will not run correctly. Web cams are the same company that made the rch cams that some of you may have heard of. They also know the motor inside and out and have helped s of folks pick cams.

Call them, ask for rhc cams, they will make them and have them in your hands in 2 weeks. Bigger cams, more lift equals more stress on the springs and valves.


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